How to identify Viognier from Northern Rhône in a blind wine tasting?

About Viognier from Northern Rhône

Viognier is the most widely planted white variety in the Northern part of the Rhône valley (2620 hectares in 2023) according to Vins Rhone. It almost became extinct in the 1960s with a mere 28 hectares present. The courage of some Condrieu producers, most notably Georges Vernay, saved the variety and even saw the variety being planted beyond French borders, e.g. Italy, Spain, USA, Austria and Australia.

In this article, we are going to focus on the aroma and flavour profile of Viognier from Northern Rhone, following a structure commonly used by wine institutions like Court of Master Sommeliers (COMS) and Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET). We will also compare it with other grape varieties and call out what makes Viognier unique.

Appearance

Colour – Medium straw (The more matured the Viognier, the darker it becomes)

Hue – Golden

Brightness – Bright (The more matured the Viognier, the less bright it becomes)

Viscosity – Medium +

Aromas and flavours

Summary – Highly aromatic and high heady floral intensity

Citrus

Lemon (ripe to overripe, candied zest or peel), orange, candied orange peel, mandarin, yuzu

Orchard

Red/yellow/golden apple, quince (just ripe)

Stone

Peach (ripe), nectarine, apricot (ripe)

Exotic

Mango, honeydew melon

Floral

White flower, jasmine, honeysuckle, lemon/ orange blossom

Tea

White tea

Organic

Löss / sandstone/ silt / mica, granite, often mineral pronounced notes

Spice

Ginger, juniper, cardamon

Oak

Used but barely detectable

Others

Honey, orgeat (Almonds, sugar, rose or orange water), gingerbread

Sweetness

Dry

Acidity

Medium

Alcohol

Medium plus – high 13% -14.5% and higher

Body

Medium to full bodied

Comparison to others

Viognier from Australia

tends to be fruitier, less mineral driven and often has a more delicate style.

Grüner Veltliner from Smaragd

Some of the rich and potentially botrytis styles can show a similar flavour profile of peaches, apricots and nectarines. However, Grüner has a higher acidity and a more vegetal (radish, asparagus, cabbage) flavour profile

Classic examples

What makes it unique

Stone fruit driven aroma and flavour profile with peaches and apricots being most noticeable.
It has a rich texture, slightly oily structure, results in a full bodied wine.
It has a mineral refreshing backbone that is often described as salinity.

Legal requirements

Majority of Condrieu is a dry white wine but sweet wine is also allowed to be produced (Vin Blanc Doux si Surmaturité). Condrieu is limiting its production to only 3 villages and they are Condrieu, Vérin et Saint-Michel sur Rhône.

Stefan Neumann MS

Austrian born, London based Master Sommelier – I am passionate about wine and a strong believer that wine should connect people. Hence I have made it my mission to share my wine knowledge and experience with like-minded individuals who would like to be part of this journey.

References:

Jancis Robinson, Harding, J. and Vouillamoz, J. (2012). Wine grapes : a complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins, flavours and wines. London: Penguin.

‌Harding, J., Robinson, J. and Thomas, T.Q. (2023) The Oxford Companion to Wine. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

http://www.vins-rhone.com. (n.d.). Viognier | Vins Rhône. [online] Available at: https://www.vins-rhone.com/en/vineyard/grapes/viognier [Accessed 30 Apr. 2024].

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